Day 4 - Neysa the hip.

Another historic barrio today and another gorgeous day -- San Telmo. This atmospheric neighborhood lined with 18th and 19th century mansions was once the place for the moneyed Portenos until a outbreak of yellow fever in 1871 led to a mass exodus. Now it is a mixed neighborhood whose heartbeat centers around Plaza Dorrego on the weekends and a massive street and artisan fair.








There are also lots of young clothing and jewelry designers selling their latest fashions. Part of the fun is to watch the designers working intricate pieces of jewelry with incredible detail and dexterity before you buy. Our Spanish is miserable but we were able to exchange in broken Castellano and English a few sentences with the designers. The local arts are truly exploding here.
















Neysa went on a killer shopping spree. It was impossible not to with vendor after vendor and then shop after shop in the adjacent neighborhood with hip and cheap clothes and jewelry. Stuart made her buy an outrageously cool hand-made sweater to finish the day.

The fair brought out quite a few tourists but this neighborhood also attracts alot of Argentinians so it wasn't overly commercialized like Caminita street in La Bocca.

















The Museum here of course was also closed for construction. We've yet to see one of the major museums -- bit frustrating but we chatted with a tourism official who gave some suggestions. The elections for Mayor of BA was also this week causing closings (and a loose ban on wine and liquor for the day -- we found a way around that!).



After a long and gorgeous day of shopping, chatting with local designers and walking the historic streets of San Telmo we headed back to Recoletta for dinner at a hip Argentinian Moderne restaurant for a great glass of Malbec, a potato and onion Tortilla (basically very tasty Spanish omelette), an phenomenal salad with the unlikely pairing of tomato, shredded carrots, hard-boiled egg and arugala, some tasty bruschetta and some amazing mushrooms in a white wine garlic sauce. -- Of course because it was a dark, candle-lit place the Argentinian couples were doing what they do best -- make out. At one point on a long couch five couples were simultaneously going at it. Very impressive. Find one couple in the mix.